[2015.03] National Geographic Magazine.pdf

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Syrian Refugees: Flight Into the Unknown
MARCH 2015
CLIMATE CHANGE
DOES NOT EXIST
EVOLUTION
NEVER HAPPENED
THE MOON LANDING
WAS FAKE
VACCINATIONS
CAN LEAD TO AUTISM
G E N E T I C A L LY M O D I F I E D F O O D
I S E V I L
THE
WAR
ON
SCIENCE
A WORKER ADJUSTS A DIORAMA
OF A MOON LANDING AT THE
KENNEDY SPACE CENTER
MARCH 2015
VOL. 227 • NO. 3
A 12-year-old Syrian
girl holds her weeks-old
sister amid the tents of
a camp in Nizip, Turkey,
that is home to some
11,000 refugees.
48
Fleeing Terror, Finding Refuge
By Paul Salopek Photographs by John Stanmeyer
During his Out of Eden Walk, the author encounters “a vast panorama of mass
homelessness”—throngs of desperate refugees escaping war-torn Syria.
30
The Age of Disbelief
It’s a phenomenon as old as
Galileo. Scientists state truths
and offer evidence, yet many
of us remain unconvinced.
By Joel Achenbach
Photographs by Richard Barnes
72
Luminous Life
More than four-fifths of Earth’s
organisms known to make light
live in the ocean. Their glowing
existence has perks and pitfalls.
By Olivia Judson
Photographs by David Liittschwager
88
Two Cities, Two Europes
The euro crisis cast two world
capitals in opposing roles—Berlin
the lender, Athens the borrower—
with each resenting the other.
By Adam Nicolson
Photographs by Gerd Ludwig
and Alex Majoli
122
Proof
|
End of the Earth
One man embraces the “polished white
emptiness” of the Greenland ice sheet.
By Murray Fredericks
On the Cover
U.S. moon landings: real, or fabricated like this exhibit at
Florida’s Kennedy Space Center? Whether astronauts walked on the moon
is one topic among science doubters.
Photograph by Richard Barnes
Corrections and Clarifications
Go to
ngm.com/more.
O F F I C I A L J O U R NA L O F T H E NAT I O NA L G E O G R A P H I C S O C I E T Y
FROM THE EDITOR
Syrian Refugees
The Refugee’s Voice
A Syrian family
find shelter at
an abandoned
gas station in
Suruç, Turkey.
They fled
Islamic State
militants.
Botol lives in Şanlıurfa, a dusty town in southern Turkey that is the reputed
birthplace of Abraham. Urfa, as it is known, had been famed for drawing
thousands of religious pilgrims to the cave where the prophet was suppos-
edly born. Now the town is filled with 150,000 people who, like Botol, are
seeking salvation of a different sort.
Botol is from Syria. Her husband fought against the Bashar al Assad
regime in that country’s ongoing civil war. More than a year ago he disap-
peared. Maybe the government arrested him, she
says. Maybe it was the Islamic State (IS) militants.
She believes he is dead.
She fears for her children back home, especially
her eldest son, 19. “They are cutting heads in the
streets,” she said recently, through a translator. This
is why Botol and about a million and a half other Syr-
ian refugees have scattered across Turkey, fleeing the
horrors of a bloody war and IS terrorists. As I write
this, more people surge across the border every day
and are crammed into refugee camps and Turkish
cities, where their growing numbers cause resent-
ment and unease among locals.
“There is no Syria anymore,” Botol said. “No
husband, no house.” She will stay here. “Safety and
security are most important.” She shares three spot-
less rooms with 15 other Syrian refugees, seven of
them children. There is no furniture. Mattresses and
rugs serve as seats. The kitchen consists of a sink, a hot plate, and a large
electric pan to make flatbread. We retreated there to talk because Botol,
out of modesty, would not speak in front of my colleague, Paul Salopek.
Paul is on a seven-year journey on foot. He literally walked smack into this
humanitarian crisis. Turkey has been so flooded by Syrian refugees that he
and photographer John Stanmeyer stopped to chronicle the diaspora for
this issue.
Botol won’t talk to Paul, but the other women in the house—Aklas, Reem,
and Hella—will. Their words spill out in a chaos of conflicting emotions,
unimaginable losses, and palpable relief.
Botol speaks for them all. “Thank God I am here,” she said. “Syria is not
a good place anymore. But this is an unbearable life. Very difficult. Very
hard. And it won’t get better, because once you lose something, you can’t
get it back.’’
There were 51 million forcibly displaced people around the world in 2013,
a UN report says—the largest number since the end of World War II. They
are, like Botol, refugees of conflict. It is important that we hear their stories.
Susan Goldberg,
Editor in Chief
PHOTO: JOHN STANMEYER

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