Trek & Mountain - November 2016.pdf

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ISSUE 76
A cke
NOVEMBER 2016
£4.25
Ja
Build a snow shelter
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Mt Katahdin, Mt Washington
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MAREK KLONOWSKI AT CAMP 3 ON THE NANGA DREAM ‘16 WINTER ATTEMPT OF NANGA PARBAT (4608M), PAKISTAN. PHOTO: MIKE DZIWOSKI. ©EQUIP OUTDOOR TECHNOLOGIES UK LTD.
Editorial
German Gully, Mont
Blanc du Tacul
Address:
Trek & Mountain Ltd,
Rangefield Court, Farnham Trading
Estate, Farnham, Surrey GU9 9NP
Tel:
0117 230 6085 (Editorial and
Advertising), 01202 586 848
(Subscriptions)
Email:
info@trekandmountain.com
Web:
www.trekandmountain.com
THE TEAM
Editor/Publisher
Chris Kempster
(chris@trekandmountain.com)
Art Editor
Kevin Lowery
(kev@trekandmountain.com)
Sub Editor
Amanda Travis
(amanda@trekandmountain.com)
Contributing Editor (Ski Touring &
Mountain Running)
Sophie Nicholson
(sophie@trekandmountain.com)
Technical Editor
Alun Richardson
(alun@trekandmountain.com)
CONTRIBUTORS
Editorial:
Will Harris, Pete Hill, Andy
Kirkpatrick, Tom Livingstone, Simon
McCartney, Alun Richardson
Photography:
Chris Bonington, Pete
Hill, Uisdean Hawthorn, Bob Kandiko,
Andy Kirkpatrick, Tom Livingstone,
Simon McCartney, Alun Richardson,
Amanda Travis, Mark Westman
Cover image:
Amanda Travis
Printed by:
Stephens & George
Distributed by:
Comag Specialist
Licensing enquiries:
licensing@trekandmountain.com
Welcome...
to our November issue, in which we travel to the Alps, New England, Alaska and Scotland
THANKS TO:
A
Chris Bonington Picture Library,
Vertebrate Publishing
VISIT US ONLINE
Website:
Twitter:
www.trekandmountain.com
@trekandmountain
Facebook:
Youtube:
trekandmountain
www.youtube.com/
trekandmountain
Copyright 2016 Trek&Mountain. While
every effort is made to ensure the advice
and information printed in this publication
is accurate, the publishers cannot be held
liable for any damage of any nature arising
from the information printed or by the
activities undertaken by readers.
s I write this the first snow has fallen
here in the Alps, so it’s appropriate
that in this month’s issue we kick off
our winter coverage with a great day
out in Glencoe (p20) and a generous helping
of essential winter skills (p54). We’ll be
continuing the winter theme over the next
few issues with some great features on
winter walking and mountaineering in the
UK, winter climbing in the Alps and ski
touring/mountaineering – so make sure you
don’t miss an issue!
Elsewhere in this issue, we’ve been
enjoying some autumn hiking in New
England, where we visited three states in five
days to climb three great peaks (p30). We
relive epic adventures in Alaska with an
exclusive extract from Simon McCartney’s
award-winning book ‘The Bond’ (p64), and
we hear from young gun Tom Livingstone as
he describes climbing two of Chamonix’s
most epic routes (p70). Enjoy the issue!
Chris Kempster
Editor
Email me at: chris@trekandmountain.com
THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS
Our expert writers this month include...
SUBSCRIPTIONS
SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT:
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EMAIL:
subs@trekandmountain.
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Trek & Mountain
Subscriptions, Select Publisher
Services Ltd, PO Box 6337,
Bournemouth BH1 9EH
TOM LIVINGSTONE
One of the UK’s brightest young
climbing talents, Tom is
building an impressive list of
ascents including Denali’s
Cassin Ridge, Divine Providence
on Mont Blanc and many more.
ALUN RICHARDSON
A British Mountain Guide, Alun
has led treks and expeditions
around the world for the last 30
years, and is also the author of
the highly-regarded Rucksack
Guides published by A&C Black.
SIMON MCCARTNEY
Simon is the author of the
award-winning book ‘The Bond’
,
in which he describes two
extraordinary first ascents in
Alaska; you can read an extract
from the book in this issue.
WILL HARRIS
Will is a Chamonix-based
alpinist whose expeditions
include Patagonia, Alaska,
Nepal and more. Currently on
the Guides scheme, Will ‘feeds
the rat’ as much as he can!
NOVEMBER 2016
T&M 3
November
2016
20
NEW
30
64
Features
20
Dragon’s Tooth
30
New England Trilogy
Expedition reports, route guides, interviews and topical features
Alun Richardson
travels to Glencoe to visit
a less-frequented winter route in this month’s
Great British Days Out
Exclusive extract from
Simon McCartney’s
brilliant
new book about two groundbreaking climbs and
the bond formed between climbing partners
68
The Bond
70
Team T&M
hits the road in
northeastern USA to climb three of New England’s
most distinctive peaks – Mt Katahdin, Mt
Washington and Camel’s Hump – in just ve days
Tom Livingstone
recounts a few days this summer
when he climbed two of Chamonix’s most famous
routes – Divine Providence on Mont Blanc and the
American Direct on the Petit Dru
70
Divine Providence
WIN!
RAB ALPHA
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SKILLS & ADVICE
Expert advice and instruction from T&M’s mountain professionals
44
48
54
Pete Hill
demonstrates some of the key moves
needed for climbing and mountaineering
44
Knowledge:
Essential
climbing moves
on getting out of auto mode, and explains
how shutter speed, aperture and ISO are used
to get the perfectly exposed picture
62
4
NOVEMBER 2016
48
Masterclass:
Outdoor
photography
54
Masterclass:
Winter skills
In part 2 of his series,
Alun Richardson
advises
We look at some of the essential skills needed
in winter, including self-arrest and building
snow shelters
Gear
FREE!
PETZL TIKKINA
WORTH £20
WHEN YOU
SUBSCRIBE
P28
gear, including the Altitude harness, Ride ice
axe, Leopard crampons and Laser Speed Light
ice screws
76
The latest outdoors gear tested
The classic Patagonia insulation piece gets
updated with the latest sustainable materials
80
Key Product:
Patagonia
Nano Puff Jacket
94
On Test:
Rab Xenon XT
Jacket
A classic insulated jacket put through its paces
82
Group Test:
Ice Axes
We test out 15 ice axes, including both classic
mountaineering axes and technical tools, in
this month’s big test
94
On Test:
Arc’teryx Arakys
A lightweight approach shoe with some
innovative features
92
Preview:
Petzl lightweight
mountaineering gear
Overview of the latest ultra-lightweight Petzl
95
On Test:
Berghaus Ramche
2.0 Down Jacket
Class-leading mountaineering down jacket
94
94
82
95
92
REGULARS
9
Breaking Trail
Our action-packed front section, including
Expedition News
(p14),
Book of the
Month
(p14),
Talks & Events
(p16),
Gadget of the Month
(p16)
News, opinion, subscription offers and more
10
13
Missed an issue of
Trek & Mountain?
Complete your collection
here...
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Can’t wait for next month’s issue? Here’s a
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Trek Directory
Looking to join a trek or expedition in 2017?
Visit our directory of the
leading trekking
and expedition companies
for inspiration
Some days in the mountains stay in the
memory forever –
Christianne Dagenais
tells
us about
one of her favourite days
when
climbing Colorado’s famous 14ers...
98
#dayslikethese
96
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NOVEMBER 2016
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