Trek_&_Mountain_-_June_2016.pdf

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ISSUE 72
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JUNE 2016
M sh d
£4.25
in
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Manage risk on expeditions
Stay safe on via ferratas
Lower-o on sports routes
VIA
FERRATA
SPECIAL!
Everything you need to
know inside, including:
20 of the world’s best routes
The key techniques explained
The essential gear you need
GREAT BRITISH
DAYS OUT
In the footsteps of climbing’s
pioneers on Napes Needle
06
9 772042 249068
HINDU KUSH,
AFGHANISTAN
The female mountaineers
defying danger and prejudice
MEXICO’S
VOLCANOES
SHELL SHOCK!
Feeling the heat on North
America’s third highest peak
12
lightweight technical shells tested
+ Haglöfs Roc Helios 25 and more
ADAPT
TO YOUR
ENVIRONMENT
08:34AM
HIKING THE BERNINA
ALPS, SWITZERLAND
With its sophisticated ventilation technology AirZone helps
you keep your cool. The suspended mesh system maximises
breathability and adapts to you, supporting your load. Whatever
path you tread, adapt to your environment with AirZone.
www.lowealpine.co.uk/airzone
ntain.com
ain.com
com)
Address:
Trek & Mountain Ltd,
Rangefield Court, Farnham Trading
Estate, Farnham, Surrey GU9 9NP
Tel:
0117 230 6085 (Editorial), 0117
230 6090 (Advertising), 01202 586
848 (Subscriptions)
Email:
info@trekandmountain.com
Web:
www.trekandmountain.com
Spitz (2,186m),
Liechtenstein
The Sherpas’ ‘office’:
beautiful yet perilous
Editorial
“Has any of this changed our xation and
allure for that mountain?” John asks of the
com)
21-time Everest
troubled times Everest has seen lately “I doubt
summiter Phurba Tashi
THE TEAM
it. I think people are gearing up for the 2016
n.com)
Editor
Chris Kempster
season, people still want to go there, it’s still the
(chris@trekandmountain.com)
Art Editor
highest mountain in the world, it’s still an
ain.com)
Kevin Lowery
(kev@trekandmountain.com)
incredible challenge. There’s still this incredible
Advertising & Marketing Manager
Nikki Skinner
service industry in Nepal. You suspect that they
(nikki@trekandmountain.com)
com)
will all attempt to return to normal”.
Contributing Editor
Sophie Nicholson
(sophie@trekandmountain.com)
‘Sherpa’, its makers hope, will stand as a
Sub
ecca Coles,
Editor
document to the Nepalese people’s situation
Amanda Travis
Kirkpatrick,
(amanda@trekandmountain.com)
chardson,
and help them continue to ght for their fair
Technical Editor
Alun
to
, in which we visit the Lakes, the
nancial and
in,
we visit Nepal,
the April edition of
Trek &
the Cairngorms
ch
Rebecca
Richardson
the Alps, North Wales and
Mountain
share of the plaudits, both
Alps, India and Nepal
(alun@trekandmountain.com)
ris, Pete Hill,
professional, o ered by mountaineering’s most
chardson,
CONTRIBUTORS
a busy time of the year for us at
Trek &
t’s
also have a review of Kev Reynolds’ new
globally
ambitious reader expedition so far, and you
in
book
s of this
digestible summit: “It will be shown
rdson
Editorial:
Terry Adby, Dan Aspel,
can follow the team’s progress on Facebook,
Mountain
on page
many
all profits go
are
and for
12 –
of you who
to
about Nepal
the
Rebecca Coles, Pete Hill, Andy
Kirkpatrick, Alun
Community
the winter mountains in Scotland
200 countries on Discovery next year” says
Richardson
Twitter or Instagram as they attempt to climb
enjoying
Action Nepal, so make sure
over
you
going on
Photography:
Terry Adby, Dan Aspel,
aged
or
your copy!
to the June edition of
Trek & Mountain
be shown at festivals
Lobuche East in
John,
Island Peak,
visit Mexico,
and
and given
order
heading off on treks and expeditions to
“it’ll
, in which we
Mera Peak
the Lakes and Afghanistan
mmunity that
Rebecca Coles, Bruce Goodlad, Pete
just 29
It’s huge challenge, but one
the Greater
we have some great features
Specialist
Hill, Alun Richardson, James
ll very much
Amanda
Elsewhere
Ranges. As I write this I’m still
on
Rushforth,
Travis
cinematic
tent
days.
and
a
ultimately will be seen by
release
team will rise to, so don’t
we visit
mountaineering in the Hindu Kush,
miss
’m writing
the children
I’m
buzzing
the
climbing
from our
North Face,
Winter Meet,
of
stream
Cover image:
Mark Tennent/Simply
Eiger
third annual
this month’s column in my
sure our
press
ain.com
Savoie
high in
And that’s good”.
next
during which a terrific
and
the
of readers
a
Liechtenstein, a
month’s issue as we’ll be bringing you
along
famous mountaineers,
bunch
Great British
of people.
Mexico’s increasingly popular volcanic peaks,
a
mountains of
lot
ow, then, is
om)
Manager
e... Welcome...
I
Welcome...
country that may be (very) small, but is
Printed by:
the
with
George
Salewa enjoyed some
Day
our friends from
also perfectly
or first-time)
Stephens &
Out on Cadair Idris. Enjoy!
formed. Stunning ridge
first news of the expedition. Until then...
climbing’s pioneers on Napes Needle in the
Distributed by:
Comag Specialist
glorious weather in the Cairngorms, and
ve some
Lake District. Then there’s
December
walks that straddle the borders of Austria
is in cinemas 18th
the little matter of
Licensing enquiries:
SHERPA
licensing@trekandmountain.com
thing or two
Switzerland combined with traditional
18 pages of via ferrata coverage for anyone
and
about mountaineering
learned a
ial treks in
who has always wanted to
on the
villages and impeccable cleanliness make
and
during three action (and fun) packed days.
will broadcast globally
give it a go! Enjoy
.
E
Staying on
TO:
THANKS
the issue…
this a fantastic destination. You can read
I’m
Savoie,
head off with another
Rockfax,
of several
Cicerone, Simply
also about to
about our visit in next month’s issue, but
Discovery Channel in 2016. Go to
Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides
group of readers to Nepal for our ‘Khumbu
a
3
h
.com
supporting
Chris Kempster
Editor
month and what cracker
Chris Kempster
Editor
back to this
we
http:/
Email me at:
lm.com for more details.
/sherpafi
chris@trekandmountain.com
Peaks
me at:
expedition. This is our most
2016’
chris@trekandmountain.com
have for you…
4) and we
US ONLINE
Email
VISIT
Website:
Twitter:
I
and we follow in the footsteps of British
www.trekandmountain.com
@trekandmountain
Facebook:
We talk to US mountain guide Emilie
Drinkwater about an incredible expedition
she was involved in to take Afghan women
Chris Kempster
Editor
Email me at: chris@trekandmountain.com
THIS MONTH’S
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
CONTRIBUTORS
TH’S CONTRIBUTORS
trekandmountain
trekandmountain
Youtube:
month include...
Our expert writers this month include...
THIS MONTH’S
www.youtube.com/
ain. While
re the advice
Copyright 2016 Trek&Mountain. While
his publication
effort is made to ensure the advice
every
annot be
and information printed in this publication
held
is accurate, the publishers cannot be held
nature arising
liable for any damage of any nature arising
d or by the
from the information printed or by the
ders.
activities undertaken by readers.
Our expert writers this month include...
CONTRIBUTORS
S
SUBSCRIPTIONS
DAN ASPEL
A freelance journalist and ML,
Dan divides his hill time between
scrambling in Snowdonia, winter
mountaineering in Scotland and
summer climbing in the Alps.
REBECCA COLES
DAN ASPEL
ALUN RICHARDSON
TERRY ADBY
SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT:
REBECCA
Rebecca is an expedition leader, Dan is a freelance journalist and
COLES
DAN ASPEL
PETE HILL
SOPHIE NICHOLSON
freelance travel and
PETE HILL
ANDY KIRKPATRICK
N BRACEY
A British Mountain Guide, Alun
Terry is a
AT:
www.trekandmountain.com/subs
the Mountaineering
Rebecca is an expedition
Instructor and
Dan is a freelance journalist and
leader,
Holder of
Pete is holder of the Mountain
treks
Based near St Gervais Les Bains
who has
One of Britain’s best-known
Mountaineering
qualified Mountain Leader.
monix-based
has led
and expeditions
outdoors writer
com/subs
British
PHONE:
01202 586 848
International Mountain
When not writing
Leader.
Mountaineering Instructor and
Leader.
qualified Mountain
about the
Instructor Certificate, Pete has
the world for
French
30
has written
a
in the
the last
Alps, Sophie
in Europe, Asia, North
Instructor Certificate, has
around
climbers, Andy
trekked
is
two
ntain Guide Bracey is one
EMAIL:
subs@trekandmountain.
8
She has climbed, trekked
mountains, he spends his time
years, and is
keen rock climber, mountaineer
also the author of
and South America. You can
International Mountain Leader.
or
When not writing about the
delivered rock and mountain
delivered rock and mountain
award-winning books, toured
ritain’s leading
com
DEC ‘15/JAN ‘16
and climbing in North
89
travelled in over 70 countries
walking
mountain.
alpinists,
the highly-regarded Rucksack
read his account of climbing
She has climbed, trekked or
mountains, he spends his time
ublisher
Bournemouth BH1 9EH
37,
and hiker,
courses for a number of years
the country with his
issue she
POST:
Trek & Mountain
courses for a number of years
published by A&C
while in this
‘stand-up’
in this issue.
ng pioneered new routes in
and on all seven continents.
Guides
Black.
Mexico’s volcanoes
travelled in over 70 countries
Subscriptions,
and
Publisher
been on numerous
Select
and has
been on numerous
writes about her greatest
and has
show and climbed numerous
Alps, Greenland, Alaska
Services Ltd, PO Box 6337,
and on all seven continents.
expeditions around the world.
passion, ski
and winter routes.
expeditions around the world.
hard rock
touring.
Himalayas.
walking or climbing in North
Wales, Scotland or the Alps.
JUNE 2016
T&M 3
Wales, Scotland or the Alps.
June
2016
Top 20 via ferratas
18
28
58
64
Features
18
Napes Needle
28
20 Best Via Ferratas
Expedition reports, route guides, interviews and topical features
In this month’s Great British Day Out,
Alun
Richardson
follows in the footsteps of British
climbing’s pioneers on Napes Needle in the
Lake District
We talk to US mountain guide
Emilie
Drinkwater
about a groundbreaking
expedition she led in the Hindu Kush with
young Afghan women
58
Afghanistan
As part of this month’s via ferrata
special,
Dan Aspel
chooses 20 of the world’s
best via ferratas and explains just what makes
them so special
64
Mexican Volcanoes
Mexico’s volcanic peaks are becoming
increasingly popular with trekkers, especially
the Volcanic Seven Summit Pico de Orizaba,
writes
Terry Adby
WIN
A MOUNTAIN
HARDWEAR
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OUTDRY PACK
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SKILLS & ADVICE
Expert advice and instruction from T&M’s mountain professionals
42
Knowledge:
Lowering off sport routes
Following last month’s intro to sport climbing, we
look at how to lower o a single-pitch route
46
Masterclass:
Via ferrata
Advice on the gear you need, and the techniques
when climbing via ferratas
46
56
4
JUNE 2016
52
Advice:
Exped planning,
part 8
This month we look at managing risk when
planning an expedition
52
42
Gear
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The latest gear news and product tests
Combining strength with low weight, the
Argon 2 could be the ideal choice for high-
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74
Key Product:
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Mandi Travis
reviews a versatile trekking boot
that copes with a variety of terrain
86
Tested:
Scarpa R-Evo
GTX Women’s trekking
boots
76
Group Test:
Lightweight
technical shells
We round up the best alpine shells on the
market to nd which best combines light
weight, performance and technical features.
Here’s what we found…
Chris Kempster
cooks up a feast with a
compact and stable tower-style stove from
Swedish brand Primus
86
Tested:
Primus Lite+
stove
84
Essentials:
Via Ferrata
A showcase of the season’s best gear for via
ferrata, plus a handy kitlist so you don’t leave
anything behind
87
Tested:
Haglöfs Roc
Helios 25 pack
We test a striking-looking backpack that
features a rear-opening main compartment
and super-tough material
76
74
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REGULARS
7
Breaking Trail
Our action-packed front section, including
Expedition News
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News, opinion, subscription offers and more
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40
Trek Directory
Looking to join a trek in 2016? Visit our new
directory of the
leading trekking and
expedition companies
for inspiration
16
Summit
89
Next month
Your best mountain photos and stories, with
the winner each month receiving an awesome
prize
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Can’t wait for next month’s issue? Here’s a
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