Trek & Mountain - May 2016.pdf

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ISSUE 71
äll ack
MAY 2016 •
Fj J
£4.25 •
Get into sport climbing
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Tel:
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Email:
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Amphu Lapcha
Pass, Nepal
The Sherpas’ ‘o ce’:
beautiful yet perilous
Editorial
“Has any of this changed our xation and
allure for that mountain?” John asks of the
com)
21-time Everest
troubled times Everest has seen lately “I doubt
summiter Phurba Tashi
THE TEAM
it. I think people are gearing up for the 2016
n.com)
Editor
Chris Kempster
season, people still want to go there, it’s still the
(chris@trekandmountain.com)
Art Editor
highest mountain in the world, it’s still an
ain.com)
Kevin Lowery
(kev@trekandmountain.com)
incredible challenge. There’s still this incredible
Advertising & Marketing Manager
Nikki Skinner
service industry in Nepal. You suspect that they
(nikki@trekandmountain.com)
com)
will all attempt to return to normal”.
Contributing Editor
Sophie Nicholson
(sophie@trekandmountain.com)
‘Sherpa’, its makers hope, will stand as a
Sub
ecca Coles,
Editor
document to the Nepalese people’s situation
Amanda Travis
Kirkpatrick,
(amanda@trekandmountain.com)
chardson,
and help them continue to ght for their fair
Technical Editor
Alun
to
, in which we visit the Lakes, the
nancial and
in,
we visit Nepal, the April edition of
Trek &
the Cairngorms
ch
Rebecca
Richardson
the Alps, North Wales and
Mountain
share of the plaudits, both
Alps, India and Nepal
(alun@trekandmountain.com)
ris, Pete Hill,
professional, o ered by mountaineering’s most
chardson,
CONTRIBUTORS
a busy time of the year for us at
Trek &
t’s
also have a review of Kev Reynolds’ new
globally
ambitious reader expedition so far, and you
in
book
s of this
digestible summit: “It will be shown
Editorial:
Dan Aspel, Rebecca Coles,
rdson
can follow the team’s progress on Facebook,
Mountain
and for 12 – of you who to
about Nepal on pagemanyall profits goare
the
Pete Hill, Sarah Hodgson, Andy
Kirkpatrick, Sophie Nicholson, Alun
the winter mountains in Scotland
200 countries on Discovery next year” says
Twitter or Instagram as they attempt to climb
enjoying
Community Action Nepal, so make sure
over
you
going on
Richardson, Paul Smith
aged
or your copy!
to the May edition of
Trek &
to
“it’ll be shown at
Peak
the
Lobuche
and Wales
John,
Island Peak, Mera
festivals and given
mmunity that
Rebecca Coles, Alison
o on treks and expeditions
Mountain,
in which we visit Pakistan,
and
Alps, Nepal
East in
Photography:
orderheading
Baskerville, Pete Hill, Sarah Hodgson,
just 29 days. It’s huge challenge, but one
the Greater Ranges. As I write this I’m still on
Specialist
Elsewhere we have some great features
ll very much
Chris Hollyman, Andy Kirkpatrick,
cinematic release and
a
ultimately will
and
miss
by
be seen
since the trail is so well marked
aving
the children
I’m sure our team will rise to, so don’t
you are
buzzing
Paul
climbingfrom our North Face,
recently
Meet,of
stream
Simone Moro, Alun Richardson,
the Eigerthird annual Winter
returned from Nepal,
press
ain.com
Smith, Amanda Travis
where
readers
a
climbed
next
lot
And that’s good”.
during which a terrific and a of
we not only
along
few
month’s
too far away from a
bringing you
famous mountaineers,bunch Great British
of
a
people.
never
issue as we’ll be
hut, a hotel, a town
ow, then, is
Cover image:
Chris Kempster
om)
Manager
e... Welcome...
I
Welcome...
6,000m peaks (page 8) but met
the
with our friends from Salewa enjoyed some
Day Out on Cadair Idris. Enjoy!
of the people recovering
first news of the expedition. Until then...
or first-time)
side of the Mont Blanc massif is what we like
some
Printed by:
Content Managed
glorious weather in the
last year’s earthquake (page 68), our
Cairngorms, and
ve some
best, and that’s the idea behind our Ultimate
from
Communications Ltd
SHERPA
is in cinemas 18th December
Distributed by:
learned a thing or two about mountaineering
Comag Specialist
TMB feature on page 28. Are you up for the
thoughts now turn to summer and what
ial treks in
enquiries:
Licensing
challenge?
globally on the
adventures we can get up
and will broadcast
Then book a week o work, jump
to in the UK and
during three action (and fun) packed days.
licensing@trekandmountain.com
.
E
Staying on
on a flight to Geneva and away you go...
I’m also about to
Europe.
o
than the
another
head
And what Tour du
Discovery Channel in 2016. Go to
with
better adventure to
of several
consider
Mont Blanc?
THANKS TO:
group of readers to Nepal for our ‘Khumbu 3
supporting
Chris Kempster
Editor
.com
Icicle Mountaineering, Community
If you haven’t done the TMB already,
Chris Kempster
Editor
then
http:/
Email me at:
lm.com for more details.
/sherpafi
chris@trekandmountain.com
Action Nepal, Handicap International
expedition. This is
a favour and get it planned in
Peaks me at: chris@trekandmountain.com
do yourselves
our most
4) and we
Email 2016’
VISIT US ONLINE
Website:
Twitter:
H
or village. Having said that, seeing the wild
THIS MONTH’S
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
CONTRIBUTORS
TH’S CONTRIBUTORS
@trekandmountain
www.trekandmountain.com
your diary, because it really is one of the most
enjoyable and breathtaking treks you will ever
do. It’s also a great trek to do independently,
Chris Kempster
Editor
Email me at: chris@trekandmountain.com
Facebook:
month include...
trekandmountain
Youtube:
Our expert writers this month include...
THIS MONTH’S
ain. While
www.youtube.com/
trekandmountain
re the advice
his publication
annot be
Copyright 2016 Trek&Mountain. While
held
nature arising
e ort is made to ensure the advice
every
and
d or by the
information printed in this publication
is accurate, the publishers cannot be held
ders.
Our expert writers this month include...
CONTRIBUTORS
S
liable for any damage of any nature arising
from the information printed or by the
activities undertaken by readers.
DAN ASPEL
A freelance journalist and ML,
Dan divides his hill time between
scrambling in Snowdonia, winter
mountaineering in Scotland and
summer climbing in the Alps.
REBECCA COLES
DAN ASPEL
ALUN RICHARDSON
SARAH HODGSON
REBECCA
Rebecca is an expedition leader, Dan is a freelance journalist and
COLES
DAN ASPEL
SOPHIE NICHOLSON
operations director at
PETE HILL
ANDY KIRKPATRICK
SUBSCRIPTIONS
PETE HILL
N BRACEY
A British Mountain Guide, Alun
Sarah is
AT:
Holder holder of the Mountain
Pete
One of Britain’s best-known
Mountaineering
leader,
qualified Mountain Leader.
monix-based
has
and expeditions
Icicle Mountaineering
Rebecca is an expedition
Instructor and
Dan is a freelance journalist and
(www.
com/subs
British
ONLINE AT:
is of the Mountaineering
led treks
Based near St Gervais Les Bains
SUBSCRIBE
International Mountain
When not writing
Leader.
Mountaineering Instructor and
Leader.
qualified Mountain
about the
around
icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk).
Instructor Certificate, Pete has
the world for
French
30
has written a
in the
the last
Alps, Sophie is two
Instructor
climbers, Andy
ntain Guide Bracey is one
www.trekandmountain.com/subs
Certificate, has
8
She has climbed, trekked or
When not writing about the
mountains, he spends his time
years, and is
keen rock climber, mountaineer
taken her
also the author of
Her climbing has
International Mountain Leader.
delivered rock and mountain
delivered rock and mountain
award-winning books, toured
ritain’s leading
PHONE:
01202
DEC ‘15/JAN ‘16
and climbing in North
89
travelled in over 70 countries
walking
mountain.
alpinists,
586 848
the highly-regarded Rucksack
from Siberia to the Atlas, the
She has climbed, trekked or
mountains, he spends his time
ublisher
Subscriptions, Select Publisher
Services Ltd, PO Box 6337,
37,
Bournemouth BH1 9EH
courses for a number of years
and hiker,
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routes in
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ng pioneered new
subs@trekandmountain.
for a number of years
published by A&C
while in this‘stand-up’
and beyond.
and on all seven continents.
Guides
Black.
Andes, Tanzania
com
Alaska and
travelled in over 70 countries
and has been on numerous
writes about her greatest
and has been on numerous
show and climbed numerous
Alps, Greenland,
POST:
Trek & Mountain
expeditions around the world.
and on all seven continents.
passion, skiand winter routes.
expeditions around the world.
hard rock touring.
Himalayas.
walking or climbing in North
Wales, Scotland or the Alps.
MAY 2016
T&M 3
Wales, Scotland or the Alps.
May
2016
28
18
Ultimate
TMB
60
68
Features
18
Llechog Buttress,
Snowdonia
Expedition reports, route guides, interviews and topical features
In this month’s Great British Days Out,
Alun
Richardson
returns to North Wales for a superb
day scrambling away from the crowds on
Llechog Buttress
Dan Aspel
talks to the proli c high altitude
mountaineer about climbing 8,000ers in
winter, and his recent rst winter ascent of
Nanga Parbat
60
The Interview:
Simone
Moro
It’s one of the world’s greatest
treks, but what’s the best way of doing it? We
team up with
Icicle Mountaineering
to bring
you our ultimate itinerary for the Tour du
Mont Blanc
28
Ultimate TMB
68
Nepal – One Year On
The news headlines have moved on, but how
is Nepal coping one year after its disastrous
earthquake? We talk to two charities that are
active there – Handicap International and
Community Action Nepal – to nd out…
WIN!
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KEB ECO-SHELL
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WORTH £390
SKILLS & ADVICE
Expert advice and instruction from T&M’s mountain professionals
44
Knowledge
The sun represents one of the biggest
dangers to mountain lovers – here’s some
advice on protecting yourself
46
Masterclass:
Sport
Climbing
46
In the rst of two articles, we show you how to get
into sport climbing and the gear you need
58
4
MAY 2016
54
Expedition Planning, part 7
This month we look at mapping and other
resources to help you plan your expedition
44
54
Gear
FREE!
HYDROFLASK
WORTH £37
WHEN YOU
SUBSCRIBE
P26
The latest product tests and gear advice
78
Key Product:
Berghaus
Extrem 8000 Pro Jacket
It’s billed as the most advanced mountain jacket
on the market, but does the 8000 Pro live up to
its billing? We nd out...
(Less Is More) range, a pair of super-lightweight
hiking boots
94
Salewa Pedroc Alpha
Jacket
80
Group Test:
Smartphone
Navigation Apps
We test out six of the best navigation apps for
your smartphone, but which is the best?
A hybrid jacket that combines Polartec Alpha
and Power Dry to give lightweight insulation on
the move
90
Essentials:
Scrambling
95
Sea To Summit Ultralite
sleeping mat
A look at some of the season’s best gear for
scrambling, plus a handy checklist to make sure
you don’t leave anything at home
The lightest model in Sea to Summit’s range of
AirCell sleeping mats gets T&M tested
95
Icebreaker underwear
92
Haglöfs Strive Mid GT
We test out the latest addition to Haglöfs L.I.M.
We expedition-test a selection of men’s and
women’s underwear from merino wool
specialists Icebreaker
80
78
92
94
95
95
REGULARS
7
Breaking Trail
Our action-packed front section, including
Expedition News
(p12),
Book of the
Month
(p12),
Talks & Events
(p14),
Gadget of the Month
(p14) and more
News, opinion, subscription offers and more
16
08
11
42
Trek Directory
Looking to join a trek in 2016? Visit our new
directory of the
leading trekking and
expedition companies
for inspiration
16
Summit
97
Next month
Your best mountain photos and stories, with
the winner each month receiving an awesome
prize
courtesy of Hanwag
Can’t wait for next month’s issue? Here’s a
sneak preview
of what you can expect
26
Subscribe
Receive a free
Hydro Flask
worth £37 when
you subscribe in May!
Some days in the mountains just stick in the
memory forever –
Mandy Evill
describes
a tough day on Cotopaxi during which she
de ed the weather to reach the summit
98
#dayslikethese
96
Back issues and digital editions
MAY 2016
5
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