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NORTHEAST ICELAND
© Lonely Planet Publications
226
Northeast Iceland
Neatly packed into a compact area in northeast Iceland are some of the country’s most
popular attractions. The undisputed gem of the north, the triangle between M�½vatn, Húsavík
and Dettifoss boasts everything from active volcanoes to towering bird cliffs, great tracts
of wilderness, Europe’s best whale watching, and awe-inspiring waterfalls. The violence
and turbulence of the region’s volcanic setting is a constant feature on the tortured land,
and it is this diversity of attractions and the short distances between them that draw the
crowds to the area.
The teeming bird life, vast lava fields and gurgling mudpots of M�½vatn and Krafla are an
obvious highlight, while to the northeast the spectacular waterfalls, canyons and rock for-
mations of Jökulsárgljúfur National Park offer a completely different take on the country. To
the northwest the pretty fishing village of Húsavík is recognised as Iceland’s whale-watching
capital, and, further beyond, the remote northeastern corner of Iceland stretches to within
a few kilometres of the Arctic Circle.
This remote peninsula to the northeast is a little-visited and sparsely populated area
of desolate moors and wildly beautiful scenery. Bypassed by the tourist hordes who whiz
around the Ring Rd to the south, and isolated from commercial development, this region
feels like the ends of the earth, with a rugged and captivating character all of its own. Dot-
ted with sleepy fishing villages and home to some of Iceland’s hardiest souls, it makes a
wonderful destination for wilderness hiking on the remote and uninhabited headlands that
jut into the pounding seas.
TOP FIVE
Hike, cycle and climb around the wonders
of M�½vatn lake before soaking your aching
muscles in the
M�½vatn Nature Baths
(p230)
Experience the bizarre rock formations,
vast canyons and utter tranquillity of
Jökulsárgljúfur National Park
(p242) on
the Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi hike
Spot a breaching whale and be followed
by curious dolphins on a whale-watching
cruise from
Húsavík
(p241)
Walk gingerly around the lava fields, craters,
turquoise lakes and bubbling mudpots at
Krafla
(p236)
Marvel at the power of mighty
Dettifoss
(p245) as you photograph its churning
waters and brilliant rainbows
Húsavík
Jökulsárgljúfur
National Park
Dettifoss
Krafla
M�½vatn
Nature Baths
lonelyplanet.com
M Ý VAT N & K R A F L A • • H i s t o r y & G e o l o g y
227
NORTHEAST ICELAND
NORTHEAST ICELAND
GREENLAND
SEA
Arctic Circle
Rauðinúpur
85
0
0
30 km
20 miles
Hraunhafnartangi
Raufarhöfn
Ásmundarstaða
Melrakkanes
Melrakkasléttarnes
k
S
k
o
r
u
v
í
Skálabjarg
HI Hostel
Ytra Lón
869
Langanes
Fontur
Þistilfjörður
Mánáreyjar
Kópasker
Hraunhólar
L
ó
n
Rauðanes
a
f
j
ö
Vellir
r
ð
ar
Þórshamar Home
Museum
Steingervingasafn
rð
ur
See Jókulsárgljúfur
National Park Map (p243)
r
Skjálfandi
Fossil Museum
Lundey
Syðritunga
85
Tjörnes
Skjálftavatn
Hallbjarnarstaðaá
Ytritunga Skúlagarður/Keldunes
Húsavík
Fjöll
Hóll
Ásbyrgi
Kel
duh
ver
fi
Unðirveggur
Öx
Ytra-Aland
Þórshöfn
Gunnólfsvikurfjall
85
(719m)
u
fjö
Bakkaflói
Bakkafjörður
Skeggjastaðir
k
R
e
y
Laxam�½ri
Skjálfandafljót
Aðaldalur
Hljóðaklettar
r
Jökulsárgljúfur
Vesturdalur
864
87
National Park
85
Hveravellir
Hólmantungur
Gjástykki
Grenjað-
Rift Zone
arstaður
Eilífur
Eilífsvatn
(698m)
d
a
j
a
l
u
Heljardalsfjöll
(886m)
Refsstaður
Vopnafjörður
la
Hó
Stakfell
(891m)
rsa
845
r
rdalu
Laxá
Vopnafjörður
917
To Akureyri
1
Goðafoss
Aðaldalshraun
Krafla
(818m)
Reykjahlíð
Fj
öl
lu
m
Grímstunga
Grímsstaðir
85
842
Hrossaborg
(405m)
Skútustaðir
Búrfell
See M�½vatn Map
(953m)
(p228)
Bláfjall
F88
(1222m)
lsá á
M�½vatn
Dal
Bustarfell
Smjörfjöll
(1251m)
He
lli
Fosshóll
Þverá
Laugar
lá
Se
sh
eið
i
1
a
l
s
Sellandafjall
(988m)
Ketildyngja
Volcano
Fjallad�½rð
h
e
Möðrudalur
i
ð
i
1
Jöku
J
ö
k
u
l
d
MÝVATN & KRAFLA
The undisputed gem of the region, M�½vatn
lake and the surrounding area are a starkly
beautiful but otherworldly landscape of
spluttering mudpots, weird lava formations,
steaming fumaroles and volcanic craters.
The M�½vatn basin sits squarely on the Mid-
Atlantic Ridge and the violent geological
character of the area has produced colourful,
diverse scenery unlike anywhere else in the
country. Its abundance of dramatic features,
good tourist facilities and excellent trails make
it a place to savour, where you can easily settle
in for a few days and experience the Iceland
you’ve always imagined.
ndu
See Krafla Map
(p236)
Syðri-Vík
Héraðsflói
H
ér
að
ss
an
du
r
Jökulsá
á
r
Borgarfjörður
Eystri
Seyðisfjörður
Egilsstaðir
To Herðubreið
& Askja
To Kverkfjöll
Lagarfljót
Thanks to its location in the rain shadow
of the Vatnajökull icecap, M�½vatn is statisti-
cally the driest spot in Iceland, so you can
expect good weather in summer. However,
the name M�½vatn means ‘midge lake’, and
unfortunately the fertile water here provides a
perfect breeding ground for midge and black-
fly larvae. Although the larvae can be thanked
for attracting prolific bird life, they can also be
the bane of travellers’ lives – see p229.
History & Geology
Ten thousand years ago the M�½vatn basin was
covered by an icecap, which was destroyed by
fierce volcanic eruptions that also obliterated
the lake at its base. The explosions formed
the symmetrical
móberg
peaks (flat-topped
NORTHEAST ICELAND
228
M Ý VAT N & K R A F L A • • O r i e n t a t i o n
lonelyplanet.com
MÝVATN
To Húsavík
(54km)
87
0
0
4 km
2 miles
To Krafla
(3km)
Hlíðarfjall
(771)
líð
Eldhraun
848
87
Krossdalur
Slútnes
Reykjahlíð
Stóragjá
Sandvatn
Protected
Nesting Area
Ytriflói
Vindbelgjarfjall
(529m)
Borg
Syðri-Neslönd
Vógar
Grjótagjá
La
Grímsstaðir
Dalfjall
(550m)
Námaskarð
Pass
Blue
Lagoon
Bjarnarflag
Hverir
1
Námafjall
(384m)
ng
863
ah
rkh
To Akureyri
(100km)
Syðriflói
Mikley
rau
Geldingaey
n
Ma
mountains formed by subglacial volcanic
eruptions) south of today’s lake, while vol-
canic activity to the east formed the Lúdent
tephra (solid matter ejected into the air by an
erupting volcano) complex.
Another cycle of violent activity over 6000
years later created the Ketildyngja volcano,
25km southeast of M�½vatn. The lava from that
crater flowed northwest along the Laxárda-
lur valley, and created a lava dam and a new,
improved lake. After another millennium or
so a volcanic explosion along the same fis-
sure spewed out Hverfell, the classic tephra
crater that dominates the modern lake land-
scape. Over the next 200 years activity esca-
lated along the eastern shore and craters were
thrown up across a wide region, providing
a steady stream of molten material flowing
toward Öxarfjörður. The lava dam formed
during the end of this cycle created the present
M�½vatn shoreline.
Between 1724 and 1729 the M�½vatnseldar
eruptions began at Leirhnjúkur, close to
Krafla, northeast of the lake. This dramatic
and sporadically active fissure erupted spec-
tacularly in 1984, and by the early 1990s the
Laxá
848
Neslandatangi
M�½vatn
Nature Baths
Teigasund
Neslandavík
Álar
Breiða
Suiðinsey
Geitey
M�½vatn
Háey
1
Hverfell
(463m)
To Búrfell
(2km)
Blátjörn
Geiteyjarströnd
La
xá
Hrútey
Dimmuborgir
Kirkjan
Lúdentarhíð
Lúdent
Arnarvatn
Álftavogur
1
Höfði
Kálfaströnd
Arnabæli
Arnarvatn
Álftagerði
Skútustaðagígar
Skútustaðir
Stakhólstjörn
849
Syðrivogar
To Lofthellir
Cave (1km)
Kráká
Gautlönd
Grænavatn
Garður
To Bláfjall (10km);
Sellandafjall (12km)
Hvannfell
(720m)
magma chamber had refilled, prompting ex-
perts to predict another big eruption. As yet
this hasn’t happened, but it’s really only a
matter of time.
In 1974 the area around M�½vatn was set
aside as the M�½vatn-Laxá special conservation
area, and the pseudocrater field at Skútustaðir,
at the southern end of the lake, is preserved
as a national natural monument.
Orientation
The lake is encircled by a 36km sealed road
(Rtes 1 and 848), with the main settlement of
Reykjahlíð on the northeast corner and a sec-
ondary village, Skútustaðir, on the south side.
Most of the sights of interest are close to this
road, or to the east and northeast. Following
the Ring Rd (Rte 1) east from Reykjahlíð takes
you over the Námaskarð pass to the Hverir geo-
thermal area, then a turn-off to the north (Rte
863) leads to Krafla, 14km from Reykjahlíð.
With your own vehicle this whole area can
be explored in a single day, but if you’re using
the bus or a bicycle allow two days. If you
want to hike and explore more distant moun-
tains and lava fields, allow at least three.
lonelyplanet.com
M Ý VAT N & K R A F L A • • R e y k j a h l í ð
229
NORTHEAST ICELAND
INTO THE MADDING SWARMS
Plague-like swarms of M�½vatn’s eponymous midges are a lasting memory for many visitors to the
area in midsummer. As infuriating as they can be, these pesky intruders are a vital food source
for wildlife. Their larvae are eaten by brown trout, and both the harlequin duck and Barrow’s
goldeneye subsist on them during the nesting season.
Unfortunately for humans, the midges are attracted to carbon dioxide, so every time you exhale,
the little buggers gather around your face and invade your eyes, ears, nose and mouth. M�½vatn
has two types of midge, the small, skinny, mosquito-like
m�½flugur
or
rikm�½,
known to occasionally
make kamikaze dives for your lungs, and the fatter, buzzing, hair-loving
bitm�½
(blackfly).
The good news is that only one species bites, so wear a head net (which you can buy for
around Ikr500 at the shop in Reykjahlíð), splash on the repellent and pray for a good wind to
send the nasty little blighters diving for shelter amid the vegetation.
Getting There & Away
Daily buses run between Akureyri, Skútus-
taðir and Reykjahlíð (Ikr2600, 1�½ hours), with
four buses in either direction in summer. The
Akureyri to Egilsstaðir (Ikr5400) bus also stops
in Reykjahlíð daily in summer and four times a
week from October to May. Buses to Húsavík
(Ikr2300, 45 minutes) run daily in summer.
Two companies operate on these routes,
with SBA using the car park in front of Hotel
Reynihlið as its pick-up/drop-off location,
and TREX stopping at the supermarket beside
the tourist office.
REYKJAHLÍÐ
pop 210
Reykjahlíð, on the northeastern shore of the
lake, is the main village and the obvious base
for trips around M�½vatn. There’s little to it
beyond a collection of guesthouses and hotels,
a supermarket, a petrol station and an infor-
mation centre.
Information
The friendly
information centre
(
%
464 4390; www
.myv.is;
h
9am-9pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, to 5pm Mon-Fri, to
noon Sat & Sun Sep)
is by the supermarket and has
Getting Around
Without a car or bicycle you may find getting
around M�½vatn a bit frustrating. Hitchers can
find the going tough, as most passing vehicles
belong to tourists, many of whom are unlikely
to stop for dusty and/or wet backpackers.
There are a few hiking trails, but they won’t
take you to all the points of interest, so you
must sometimes walk along the road. Allow
about three hours to walk between Reykjahlíð
and Skútustaðir.
You can hire a car from
Hótel Reynihlíð
(
%
464 4170; www.reynihlid.is;
h
Jun-Aug)
. The
cheapest vehicle will cost you Ikr9200 per
day with 200km free, but for a small 4WD
vehicle it’s Ikr21,300 per day.
If you have calm weather, the best option
for travellers without a car, is to hire a moun-
tain bike. In Reykjahlíð you can rent bikes
from Hótel Reynihlíð (Ikr900/1800 per half/
full day), Ferðaþjónustan Bjarg (Ikr1000/1500
for six/12 hours) and Hlíð camp site (from
Ikr1200/1600 per half/full day).
The 36km ride around the lake can be easily
done in a day, allowing time for sightseeing
at all the major stops.
a display on the geology of the area as well
as a large seating area perfect for waiting out
bad weather. While here pick up a copy of the
map
Lake M�½vatn & the River Laxá
(Ikr100).
The office is only open in winter if the park
ranger happens to be in.
The
post office
(Helluhraun)
is on the street
behind the supermarket. Inside is the local
Sparisjöðu M�½vetninga bank with foreign ex-
change and a 24-hour ATM.
Internet access is available at Hotel Rey-
nihlíð (Ikr500 for 30 minutes, free to hotel
guests), Ferðaþjónustan Bjarg (Ikr400 for 30
minutes) and at Hlið camp site (Ikr400 per
30 minutes).
Sights & Activities
During the huge Krafla eruption of 1727 the
Leirhnjúkur crater, 11km northeast of Reyk-
jahlíð, kicked off a two-year period of vol-
canic activity, sending streams of lava along
old glacial moraines and past Reykjahlíð to
the lake shore. On 27 August 1729 the flow
ploughed through the village, destroying farms
and buildings, but, amazingly, the well-placed
wooden
church,
which sat on a low rise, was
spared – some say miraculously – when the
tt
ttt
tt
ttt
ttt
NORTHEAST ICELAND
230
M Ý VAT N & K R A F L A • • R e y k j a h l í ð
lonelyplanet.com
REYKJAHLÍÐ
14
0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
A
B
C
D
SLEEPING
Eldá.............................................
6
Ferðaþjónustan Bjarg...................
7
Helluhraun 13..............................
8
Hlið Camp Site.............................
9
Hótel Reykjahlíð.........................
10
Hótel Reynihlíð..........................
11
B3
B3
B3
A1
B3
A2
1
9
Walking Trail
to Hliðarfall
INFORMATION
Information Centre......................
1
B3
Post Office...................................
2
B3
Sparisjöðu M�½vetninga Bank.....(see 2)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Church........................................
3
A2
Magma Essentials........................
4
C3
M�½flug Air...............................(see 14)
Swimming Pool...........................
5
D2
Lava Fields
To Húsavík (54km);
Akureyri (100km)
1
3
EATING
Gamli Bærinn.............................
12
B2
Hótel Reykjahlíð......................(see 10)
Myllan.....................................(see 11)
Supermarket..............................
13
B3
TRANSPORT
Airport.......................................
14
A1
Rin
g
11
12
2
Rd
5
Hilðavegur
Birkihraun
10
M�½vatn
7
Esso Service
Station
13
1
Helluhraun
Helluh
raun
2
Múlavegar
4
3
6
8
1
Blue Lagoon (1km);
Bjarnarflag Flats (3km);
M�½vatn Nature Baths (3km);
Krafla (13km);
Egilsstaðir (169km)
Ring Road
To Vógar (3km);
Akureyri via
Skútustaðir (104km)
Stóragjá
Walking Track to
Hverfell & Dimmuborgir
flow parted and missed it by only a few metres.
It was rebuilt on its original foundation in
1876. You can still see remnants of the origi-
nal Reykjahlíð farm, which was destroyed by
the lava.
In 1962 a new church was opened close to
the same site and in 1972 the original church
was finally taken down. The interior of the
present church is filled with carvings, paint-
ings and batik-style art. The wooden carving
on the pulpit is a representation of the church
that survived the lava.
Clouds of steam rise from the turquoise blue
waters at the
M�½vatn Nature Baths
(Jarðbaðshólar;
%
464 4411; www.jardbodin.is; adult/8-16yr Ikr1100/550,
towel/swimsuit hire Ikr350/350;
h
9am-midnight Jun-Aug,
noon-10pm Sep-May)
, 3km east of Reykjahlíð. This
Alternatively, a stormy day in Reykjahlíð is
well spent relaxing at the 25m outdoor
swim-
ming pool
(adult/under 14yr Ikr280/150;
h
10.30am-9pm
Jun-Aug, 10.30am-8pm Sep-May)
and hot tub. The
complex also has a sauna, solarium and gym
(Ikr550).
Although there are no regular boat trips on
M�½vatn, you can hire rowing boats (and obtain
fishing permits and gear) from Ferðaþjónustan
Bjarg (opposite) for Ikr1200 per hour.
Tours
Tourism reigns supreme at Reykjahlíð and
for travellers without their own transport
there are numerous tours around the area.
Tours can get really heavily booked during
the summer months, so try to book at least a
day before departure. Tours also run from the
Sel-Hótel in Skútustaðir (see p234) through-
out the winter.
HORSE RIDING
is the north’s answer to the Blue Lagoon, and
although smaller it’s a gorgeous place to relax
and ease aching muscles in the mineral-rich
water. There are also three natural steam
baths, a hot pot and a small café.
If you fancy some pampering,
Magma Essen-
tials
(
%
464 3740; www.magmaessentials.com; Birkihraun
11)
offers aromatherapy and Raynor massage
therapy.
Horse-riding tours around the lake are avail-
able with
Hestaleiga
(
%
464 4103; 1/2/3hr Ikr2500/4000/
5500)
. Tours leave at 10.30am and 5pm and can
be booked at Hlíð camp site (see opposite).

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