Trek & Mountain 2015-10.pdf

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ISSUE 65
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OCTOBER 2015
M
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£3.99
Carry a rope
Use axes on rock
Plan an expedition
Bolivia’s
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Editorial
Mer de Glace,
Chamonix
Address:
Trek & Mountain Ltd,
Rangefield Court, Farnham Trading
Estate, Farnham, Surrey GU9 9NP
Tel:
0117 230 6085 (Editorial), 0117
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Email:
info@trekandmountain.com
Web:
www.trekandmountain.com
THE TEAM
Editor
Chris Kempster
(chris@trekandmountain.com)
Art Editor
Kevin Lowery
(kev@trekandmountain.com)
Advertising & Marketing Manager
Nikki Skinner
(nikki@trekandmountain.com)
Contributing Editor
Sophie Nicholson
(sophie@trekandmountain.com)
Sub Editor
Amanda Travis
(amanda@trekandmountain.com)
Technical Advisor
Alun Richardson
CONTRIBUTORS
Editorial:
Terry Adby, Rebecca Coles,
Pete Hill, Alun Richardson, Paul Smith
Photography:
Terry Adby, Rebecca
Coles, Jon Griffith, Pete Hill, Andy
Houseman, Conor McCarthy, Alun
Richardson, Paul Smith
Printed by:
Content Managed
Communications Ltd
Distributed by:
Comag Specialist
Licensing enquiries:
licensing@trekandmountain.com
Welcome...
to our October issue, in which we visit Greenland, the Balkans, Bolivia, Pakistan and more
THANKS TO:
Conor McCarthy @ Type Two Films,
Green Visions
I
VISIT US ONLINE
Website:
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www.trekandmountain.com
@trekandmountain
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trekandmountain
Copyright 2015 Trek&Mountain. While
every effort is made to ensure the advice
and information printed in this publication
is accurate, the publishers cannot be held
liable for any damage of any nature arising
from the information printed or by the
activities undertaken by readers.
t’s been a busy few weeks for Team Trek &
Mountain, and you can read about some
of the adventures we’ve been up to in this
issue. The big news this month is that our
team of readers succeeded on Stok Kangri,
despite unusually wintry conditions on the
peak (see page 8) – you can read the full
story of the expedition in next month’s issue.
On page 56 Amanda Travis writes about our
recent visit to the Balkans, where we hiked in
Bosnia and Croatia – countries that are sure
to become popular walking destinations in
the coming years, particularly with the
creation of the Via Dinarica long-distance
trail. Elsewhere, Alun Richardson has been
testing Fjällräven’s new Keb Eco-Shell jacket
while leading an expedition in Greenland
(p78), and I’ve been doing my bit for the
environment near our base in Chamonix
during a litter clean-up on the Mer de Glace
glacier (p10). There’s loads more besides of
course, so turn the page and enjoy the issue!
Chris Kempster
Editor
Email me at: chris@trekandmountain.com
THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS
Our expert writers this month include...
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Subscriptions, Select Publisher
Services Ltd, PO Box 6337,
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ALUN RICHARDSON
A British Mountain Guide and
photographer, Alun has led treks
and expeditions around the
world for the last 30 years. He is
also the author of the highly-
regarded Rucksack Guides.
TERRY ADBY
Terry Adby is a freelance
journalist with a special interest
in the outdoors and travel. He
has walked, scrambled and
trekked in the UK, the
Himalayas, Andes and Pyrenees.
REBECCA COLES
Rebecca is an expedition leader,
Mountaineering Instructor and
International Mountain Leader.
She has climbed, trekked or
travelled in over 70 countries
and on all seven continents.
ANDY KIRKPATRICK
One of Britain’s best-known
climbers, Andy has written two
award-winning books, toured
the country with his ‘stand-up’
show and climbed numerous
hard rock and winter routes.
OCTOBER 2015
T&M 3
October
2015
22
64
30
Features
56
Expedition reports, route guides, interviews and topical features
This month
Alun Richardson
meets up with an
old friend to enjoy an airy scramble on one of
North Wales’ best ridges
22
Great British Days Out:
East Ridge of Y Garn
64
The Interview:
Andy
Houseman
We chat with the Yorkshire alpinist about his
recent expedition to Link Sar in the Karakoram
with Jon Gri th, and the highlights of his
climbing career so far
Terry Adby
treks among the
mountains of the Cordillera Real with the goal
of climbing 6,000m peak, Huayna Potosi
30
Trekking in Bolivia’s
Cordillera Real
Amanda Travis
describes the charms of trekking
in the Balkan mountains, where the trails are
uncrowded and forests are full of wild animals
56
Bosnia and Croatia
SKILLS & ADVICE
Expert advice and instruction from T&M’s mountain professionals
Meindl Air
Revolution 4.1 boots
worth £235
P54
42
Knowledge:
Coiling a rope
This month we show you how to coil a rope
for when carrying it on your pack
44
Masterclass:
Dry Tooling,
part 2
This month we look at the core climbing techniques
used in dry tooling
50
44
In the rst part of our new series,
Rebecca Coles
advises on choosing a destination for your trekking
or mountaineering expedition
4
OCTOBER 2015
50
New Series!
Expedition
Planning, part 1
42
18 ISSUES
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THE PRICE OF 12!
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Gear
The latest news, reviews and product tests
74
Gear News
In the second part of our report from the massive OutDoor
show in Friedrichshafen, Germany, we preview the new gear
that’ll be hitting the shops next spring
Alun Richardson
takes Fjällräven’s new waterproof, breathable
and eco-friendly jacket to Greenland to see how it copes on
the mountain
78
Key Product:
Fjällräven Keb
Eco-Shell Anorak
78
89
80
Group Test:
Helmets
Is there one helmet that does it all? We test 15 of the leading
models on the market to nd out...
89
Haglöfs Essens Mimic Jacket
The next innovation in insulation is here! We test out the new
synthetic insulation that thinks its down...
Nikki Skinner
waxes lyrical about the Bu s she has worn on
Denali, Ama Dablam and closer to home
90
Buffwear Buffs
Amanda Travis
roadtests some pants that are purpose-built
for alpine adventures of all kinds...
90
Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Pant
90
REGULARS
7
Breaking Trail
Our action-packed front section, including
Expedition News
(p12),
Book of the
Month
(p12),
Talks & Events
(p14),
Gadget of the Month
(p14) and more
News, opinion, subscription offers and more
11
8
18
96
Directory
From
courses, training and insurance
to
treks and expeditions, our Directory is a great
place to nd the service you need
18
Summit
97
Next month
Your best mountain photos and stories, with
the winner each month receiving an awesome
prize courtesy of
Rab
Can’t wait for next month’s issue? Here’s a
sneak preview
of what you can expect
98
Local Heroes
40
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Britain’s best mountain magazine
Each month we meet the people on the
ground who make our outdoor adventures
possible – this month, we speak to Ladakh
guide
Dorje Shelipa
92
Back issues and digital editions
OCTOBER 2015
5
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